2001 RM 250

rosch726

rosch726

PR Member
So first, I have not rode in 5 years and on top of that, I don’t think I’ve rode a 2stroke since about 2004. And with all that, I’m not the most mechanical person…

so I bought this 250 from someone, bike is in good shape! So I’ve just done some minor cosmetic things. Bike normally runs good. He was using VP 40:1 fuel and all seemed to be good. I was planning to ride tomorrow but now having issues. I bought 110 octane fuel and 40:1 mix.

At the start of the day it was acting like it couldn’t clear out after I started it. I tried to take to carb bowl off to look but the damn screws are stripped. So I thought to check the plug. He had an NGK BR8ES in the bike and book calls for a BR8EG. So I put that in. Bike started good, idle cleared out. So I put it in gear to check and it’s like once I put it in gear it boggles down, can’t even get out of first or it almost stalls. So is it a carb issue? If so, what could it possibly be? I don’t know crap about carburetors!

thanks for any help….
 
Do you know what specific VP fuel he was running? He may not have been running that high of octane. Will it rev when you put it in gear or just wants to die when you give it throttle? Not much difference between the two plugs. The "G" plug has a fine wire center electrode vs the standard plug. Helps to reduce fouling.

Might check your air screw. It is a flat head brass screw on the side of the carb. It will be on the shifter side of the bike. It will be indexed into the carb body, and straight in. There will be the idle adjustment screw on the same side, but it will likely be a black plastic head and be at an upward angle. Turn the air screw clockwise until it lightly seats. How many turns did you get? try setting it at 1 1/2 turns counterclockwise from lightly seated and see if that helps at all.
 
First rule of troubleshooting, what changed.

Sounds like the bike doesn't like the fuel you put in.

On my 2-strokes I run a 50/50 mix of premium pump/108 octane race.
 
mcso434 said:
Do you know what specific VP fuel he was running? He may not have been running that high of octane. Will it rev when you put it in gear or just wants to die when you give it throttle? Not much difference between the two plugs. The "G" plug has a fine wire center electrode vs the standard plug. Helps to reduce fouling.

Might check your air screw. It is a flat head brass screw on the side of the carb. It will be on the shifter side of the bike. It will be indexed into the carb body, and straight in. There will be the idle adjustment screw on the same side, but it will likely be a black plastic head and be at an upward angle. Turn the air screw clockwise until it lightly seats. How many turns did you get? try setting it at 1 1/2 turns counterclockwise from lightly seated and see if that helps at all.
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This was a HUGE help!!! So stoke is like you suggested, 1½ turns out. That guy had it like 3 turns out. I did what you suggested and it was such a help!! Thank you so much!
 
Good, glad it helped. That screw can be fine tuned too. With the engine up to temperature, and at idle, if you slowly turn it clockwise the idle will (should) begin to drop at some point. If you turn it slowly counterclockwise, the idle should start to rise. Somewhere between these two points will yield the best idle and rev right off idle.

I also recommend getting that float bowl off so you can verify there is no junk in there. And to check what jetting is currently in there. I have used needle nosed vice grips to remove stripped float bowl screws. The bolts are M4 and probably 12mm long.
 
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