Team Green....Kawasaki !

I'm actually anxious to share this with my Dad.
I'm not sure that he's ever been aware of the difference. And he still does a lot of small engine repairs.
Damn, I can't begin to tell you how many screws I've ended up resorting to loosening with a hammer and chisel due to this.

A full set of JIS drivers might just make a nice Holiday gift.
 
big-head-o.jpg
 
McMaster Carr has a 3-piece set for $35 it’s part number 53325A61
Here are two of them below. The third one is a smaller bit.
BBEB5506-60B9-4BD9-9240-6DF5926677BA.jpeg
 
NQ1965 said:
I have one of these pullers that I bought for when I did my Yamaha MX250. But if I'm remembering correctly my KDX didn't have the internal threads for it. (threads where the 24mm and 27mm are shown).

I'll double check tonight when I get home.
Click to expand...

I remembered correctly. No threads on the KDX175.

IMG_3340.JPG


And here's a pic of the puller I bought back when I did the Yamaha. I actually came across it on ebay after I had the Yamaha's flywheel pulled, and then when I ordered it I didn't check the thread size, discovering when it arrived that my flywheel had the 24mm threads, not the 27.

So it's been setting unused in my tool bench drawer, patiently waiting to come to my strenuously deserved rescue at just the precise moment of a future rebuild.
I'll have to grab me up another for the 24mm.
IMG_3344.JPG
 
MX099 said:
McMaster Carr has a 3-piece set for $35 it’s part number 53325A61
Here are two of them below. The third one is a smaller bit.View attachment 57209
Click to expand...

I did a quick search at lunch time today on the drivers and saw the Vessel drivers. On the Vesseltools.com site it looks like they are geared toward the motorcycle industry.

I'll be honest with you though, they don't look very heavy duty.
Many times in the past I've had to wrap a wrag around a screwdriver handle and clamp onto it with a large pair of channellock plyers to get the necessary twisting torque to break a screw loose. In my experience the only tools that I have owned that can withstand that sort of stress are Craftsman, and Klien tools. Although I'm very sure other top brands like Snap-On, Mac, Matco and others would take the abuse as well.
Sometimes you just do what you have to do to get the job done.
 
That is the first flywheel I have ever seen without the threads.
I would have reach for the little round puller and tried to put it in. Once realizing it wouldn't take, I probably would've freaked out claiming that someone had stripped the threads on my flywheel. – LOL
 
NQ1965 said:
I did a quick search at lunch time today on the drivers and saw the Vessel drivers. On the Vesseltools.com site it looks like they are geared toward the motorcycle industry.

I'll be honest with you though, they don't look very heavy duty.
Many times in the past I've had to wrap a wrag around a screwdriver handle and clamp onto it with a large pair of channellock plyers to get the necessary twisting torque to break a screw loose. In my experience the only tools that I have owned that can withstand that sort of stress are Craftsman, and Klien tools. Although I'm very sure other top brands like Snap-On, Mac, Matco and others would take the abuse as well.
Sometimes you just do what you have to do to get the job done.
Click to expand...

The ones I posted in the photo are at least 5 years old. Do they look worn out to you? They are screwdrivers, not drift pins or pry bars.
 
NQ1965 said:
That's very interesting. I've never heard of JIS or knew there was such a difference.
Looking back at the photos though it looks like all of the screw heads are an open style of Phillips.

The Phillips head screwdriver that I have has a broad yet blunted tip, and it seem to be a good fit. I didn't have any rounding off issues while using it. It's just hard to break the screws loose with it without tapping or pounding on it while turning.

I remember a thread from a couple of years ago on this where Georgie commented that the problem when your rounding off screw heads is a result that the Phillips tip is too long and is bottoming out in the screw without being fully seated in all of the side slots of the screw head. I learned something I didn't realize from that conversation as well.

Definitely need the correct bits for my hand impact driver. Good info!
Click to expand...

http://www.pitracer.com/threads/61254/
 
If you aren't using them for drift pins, chisels or pry bars then you have too many tools in your box. lol.
My 5 year old tools never look that good.
I guess you never know until you try them. Not the first time I've been proven drastically wrong. (just ask my wife and my kids :D).

But all this being said, more than anything it likely comes down to using the correct tool for the job at the moment. No doubt, for breaking screws loose for the first time, using an hand impact or powered impact driver vs a screwdriver and channel locks, or screw driver and hammer is a much better appropriate choice. Then just use the screwdrivers as they were meant to be used.

Shouldn't pre-judge.
 
Well, now .....So we've solved the mystery (again) of the "junk Jap screws" on Asian motorbikes.

What's next on list of knowledge that needs to be passed on to keep the old bikes running-?
Hummm---

Staying with the old bike / rebuilding direction ...let's talk 2-strokes.

By just adding MORE Oil to your mixture is actually making the bike leaner----? say what??
Running 32:1 is leaner than running at 40:1 - Yep
 
Beings the whole reason for this KDX rebuild is to reduce fogging, I'm all ears.
I've consistently ran 32-36:1 in all my bikes. The positive is I've not had a failure do to lubrication, the negative is the motors and pipes carbon up pretty badly.

I can't say that I've ever experimented or strayed from my premix habits but I do recall reading in my MXAction magazines that they would run 40:1 (Yamalube) in every 2 stroke they tested and raced.

Would you say it's noticeably leaner? Certainly don't hear any pinging.
 
NQ1965 said:
I do recall reading in my MXAction magazines that they would run 40:1 (Yamalube) in every 2 stroke they tested and raced.
Click to expand...
A good middle of the road choice for creating a "standard" but by no means the correct answer in obtaining optimum performance while maintaining reliability.
 
Rich and/or lean are conditions that come about because of the air vs fuel ratios in a given charge.
The piston can only gulp so much "charge" with each pass.
Each "charge" has three things that make up the mixture . Air, gas & oil.
The air & gas explode and get burned. The oil does not.
Yet the oil takes up space in each charge....

The more oil in each "charge" the less room for gas --
Less gas with the same amount of air = a leaner burn
Less oil (more gas) to the same amount of incoming air = richer burn
 
If it smokes badly it may be the jetting is WAY off on the KDX -

First ya pick a ratio to maintain reliability - then you jet accordingly depending on altitude, air temp, carb size, terrain and riding style.
 
FYI - the 2017 Husky manual says run 60:1 for the 300 TX

That's almost 50% less than 32:1
I just took it apart with 42 hrs on it and it looks NEW inside.
I'm running Maxima Super M
 
That's less oil than my weedeater uses.
Doesn't seem like it leaves any margin for error.

I need to open my thinking up a bit for the setup and prep on my bikes. It's a wonder they run as well as they do.
How long have you been running Maxima Super M?
 
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Smaller bore = higher revs = needs more oil for lube (weed eater - 85cc race bikes)
Single ring = needs more oil for better ring seal (yes, the oil helps seal the combustion process)

Bigger bore, double ring or low RPM riding = less oil needed.

Been on Maxima Super M since grabbing the 2006 YZ 125.
 
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